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Peak Mountain 3

Ride the Lightning

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Description

Great positioning! Free climbing, aid, a little choss, great exposure, and some good rock. A good outing for sure.

First pitch: is a some loose offwidth to a cool stem between wall and pillar to gain the Ledge. (130 feet)

Second pitch: Some C1+ off the belay to a widening crack, switch crack systems as a crack appears on your right. Watch out for a loose section midway up. 5.10 offwidth to a stance/ledge (70 feet)

Third pitch: Place a piece high up off the belay and pendulum right to a crack system. Climb hands up an ever widening crack to the base of the roof. Grovel up some wideness through the roof. Continue up the wide until a small ledge and a short corner to the top. (5.10+, 110 feet)

All of this could go free fairly easily.

Location

This route lies on the opposite wall as

Factotum

. After hiking up the trail on the right side of the granite drainage, keep trending towards the right wall of the Gold Star Canyon. On a clean section of the wall, the large pillar is obvious as is the crack systems that split the wall. Start on the left side of the detached pillar.

Protection

A double set of cams from really small to #6. It depends on how much you want to aid, how much you want to free. Small/ micro nuts for the first bit on the 2nd pitch. Two double rope raps from the top gets you down.