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Peak Mountain 3

Bottle Top: North Face Direct

FA Mickey Guziak, Robert Rowsam, Peter Blank
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1. Climb beautiful #6 and Valley Giant 9  sized splitter on great rock. It is very clean and worth doing as a single pitch crag route.

P2. Head up the garbage chimney, and make a step across move (aid) into more bad rock and a couple more moves to good gear. Climb up to a ledge, and belay on wide cams.

P3. Continue with more loose climbing up a wide but easy corner, moving awkwardly around several large blocks into the chimney. Climb up the chimney, and it's possible to escape through the tunnel to the start of the

Bouncing Betty Route

.

P4. From north side of tunnel, climb hands to a tough move right entering a squeeze. Unless you have a perfect road biker physique, you might need to climb the steep #6 crack straight up instead. Get to ledge, and aid through large roof and bird shit to another large roof and summit.

Only three points of aid were used. Be a stud, and free it.

Location

Park at White Rocks. This is on the North face of Bottle Top Tower. It is the longest possible route on the formation. Other than the middle 150' of scary classic Monument climbing, the rest of the route is excellent!

Protection

2x 0.3-6, 3 x 1 Valley Giant 9 (useful on first pitch), 1 baby angle, and a medium pecker.