Psilocybe Cyanescens

A long time locals favorite mushroom now has a UTW line dedicated to its magic! While the mushroom is potent the climb is fortunately mostly moderate. The crux is short and quality! Just another wonderful UTW line with good and safe protection.

P1- Most bang for buck climbs Another mans car to the Brett and Scott Memorial anchor .11-. Another option is to climb Lamplighter .10  to the same anchor at base of BNS "Frog Corner". One can link p1 and p2 easily from Another Mans car p1. You can also link p1 of Lamplighter to p2 with good rope work and extension of draws.( .11- or .10)

P2- If you stopped at the BNS anchor this pitch will be short. Step slightly down from the anchor and undercling traverse hard left on a flake under BNS "Frog Corner" you will pass a bolt with couple face moves. once on the arete climb straight up till at the height of the anchor and step left to anchor. .9

P3- Crux pitch. Undercling out left on featured stone and make a move to a horizontal dike. Pull a quintessential Index move and continue straight up to ledge ( BNS p2 anchor is on this ledge but on right) from ledge traverse hard left on slopers and crimps to the anchor out on the face ( dont go to BNS anchor) .11-

P4- A fine mostly bolted pitch. Continue straight up on good face holds to a large flake where you can place a #3 or #4 camalot (optional #5) pass many bolts and a finger or two size cam to a large ledge (Sabbath Ledge) .10

P5- Jugs and rails lead to the sky. .9

P6- A fine hand crack goes up to a face move or two to more splitter cracks to the top of the wall. .9

The last two pitches make for a fine alternative to the last two pitches of BNS route. Its also best to link the last two pitches. The anchor atop p5 is mostly in place for Rappel. The rap route goes straight down to the anchor at base of p3. From there continue rappelling straight down to an anchor on a steep wall. The rappel route is plum line down the wall and does not go near p1 and p2.

Enjoy!

Start on Another mans car if you want full experience. Or on Lamplighter

Another mans ca gear to 6". Lamplighter doubles to .75 1 #1 1 #2, extendable draws, QDS