Wildest Dreams

P1 (5.10): Start as for Golden Road or climb the flake more easily from the left. 6 or so bolts lead up a face to the right of Golden Road to a left facing corner (9+). Stem and jam the corner past thin gear (10+) at the top to a belay anchor on a ledge on the right.

P2 (5.11): A flake goes up left to a fin/shallow corner. Use some small cams and nuts between bolts 1 and 2. After about 4-5 more bolts, the fin ends and you face a thin seam/face-climbing crux. A few more face moves (protected by medium-sized gear) lead to a 5.10 mantel and comfy belay ledge.

P3 (5.12a or A1): Two bolts protect the beginning of a right-leaning, thin fingers/fingertip crack. Tiny cams (0,00 TCU, 0 C3, black and blue aliens) to finger size pieces protect the rest. At only 40 feet, this pitch is certainly sustained at the grade. Belay on a large ledge that forms part of the descent and traverse pitches on the original Davis-Holland route.

If aiding it's probably easy to just French-free the crux.

P4 (5.10): Two bolts protect face moves that lead to sustained, thought-provoking climbing in discontinuous cracks. The pitch is nearly 35 m, so if you want to lower off the chains or rap, make sure you have a 70-m rope (or a second rope).

A short face traverse and 4th-class climbing leads up to the top of the wall where you can quickly get to the trail.

Starts in the same area as Golden Route via a two bolt slab or a 3rd/4th class flake traverse.

A single 70m will work for the whole climb and the descent. The final pitch is a full 35m so be careful when lowering the leader and be sure your rope is likewise a full 70m.

SR to 3" with extra in the tiny to finger size. Don't recall if you absolutely need doubles in the larger sizes. Some smaller nuts are useful for P1 and maybe P2 but I dunno if you absolutely need them.

Anchors are all fixed and equipped with rappel hardware.