Golden Road

A modern classic! This is an amazing climb, with good variety and beautiful stone. All pitches are just under 30m and can be quickly rapped with a 60m rope.

P1: Boulder past two bolts, then walk right on the ledge to an arete. Cruxy moves bring one up, into the crack, and to the belay just up and left of a sloping ledge stance. (Note, this pitch may work better broken into two pitches, with a ledge fall possible if done in one pitch). This pitch is now 5.10 and takes no gear.

P2: Delicate and sequency climbing leads up past a flake, and rightward through an intricate sequence of moves back onto the arete. 5.11

P3:Up the arete on impossibly good holds, with a short crux near the end of the pitch. 5.10+

P4: Stem or smear your way up to the base of the roof, and reach high for holds to get you through. Continue up to the belay. 5.11-

P5: Up a cruxy layback sequence on sharp rock, then past the big roof on big holds. Tenuous climbing above the roof keeps you on your toes until the chains. 5.11+

This route follows the plumb-line arete to the right of Heavens Gate, and left of Davis-Holland. The route begins on a huge boulder/flake leaning against the wall, and stays just left of the chimney system for its entire length.

All new bolts and all anchors are double bolted and set for rapping.