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Peak Mountain 3

Batskins

FA P1 full: Bob Crawford, Pat Timson FFA P1 short: Terry Lien P1 full: Darryl Cramer, Max Dufford P2: Cramer, Nicola Masciandaro
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Description

This climb has some really interesting knobs and a good variety of features and climbing styles. The short version of the first pitch climbs an arch feature with natural gear (some tricky placements) to a ledge with an anchor (.11a) This is a worthwhile pitch on its own. The full pitch continues past bolts in a shallow groove with some tricky stemming and a cruxy section on knobs, moving left to an anchor (.12b).

The second pitch is also excellent providing it has been brushed recently. It follows a thin ramp and then a stemming corner with knobs to a testy balance crux up high. 3 bolts; some small gear is needed to protect the crux moves (.11d).

Location

Climbs the right facing arch to the left of Godzilla. A toprope variation climbs the face under the arch and joins the arch midway through.

Protection

Natural gear to 3 inches for the first part, especially small; Bolts (4 or 5) plus an anchor for the second part.