Model Worker

This terrific pitch is best done as one long pitch, skip the first anchors where there used to be a stump (thanks for removing this!!!) The crux is just before the first bolt on the upper section, and is protected by small cams or nuts. Although, I think the lower part is just as hard. This climb is probably damn near impossible for short people, unless you are good at sideways shoulder wrenching dynos.

As of 2018, there is now a lower-off anchor at a no-hands rest at 35 m, allowing one to lower off with a 70-m rope.

Otherwise, the descent requires two raps to the ground, stopping at the first anchor, or a lower one on the neighboring route.

Just right of

Princely Ambitions

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You can slot an inverted small carabiner in the hole before the first bolt, but may cause rope drag problems. You will want some gear to fill in the gaps between the bolts on the upper section.