Japanese Gardens

A central, classic full-wall route.

P1 (short): Starts with a fun 10a section in a short left-facing dihedral. Trends right then back left and up a wide crack (protects great with a #3 Camalot). This "pitch" ends at the first chains.

P1 (full): Past the first chains, the wide section continues, with high steps and laybacking protected by a #4 Camalot. Two cruxes remain where the crack peters down to fingers then hands. Finish on a finger crack with big moves off edges and locks by stemming and traversing to the right (11b).

P2: A short jam/lieback that gets progressively harder until the last move (11b). Ledgy climbing leads to an anchor up and right.

P3: Step left and enter a flare with a fingercrack (11a). Physical jamming leads up around the left side of a roof and up a slab to a belay.

P4: A slab leads to steeper slab climbing through left-facing corners and arches (11c). Easier slabs then lead to a belay at the top of the wall (9).

(Jonah's description for P1, Drewsky's for P2-4.)

Doubles through #2 Camalots, single #3 and #4, some small nuts. Some people (Tripplet) lead the first pitch on about 6 pieces. Whatever. You can run TR laps if you hang a 70m rope, but make SURE you place a directional (#1 Metolius) to the left of the anchor or the rope will get completely jammed in the crack and you won't be able to move it at all.