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Peak Mountain 3

Lichen Psilocybin

FA Rob 'The Rock' DeZonia
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is located on the left side of the formation on the buttress in front of the corridors. This fun route starts on the right side of a small roof at the base and trends leftward towards the dihedral and the large crack at the top of the formation.

Start off with dicey moves on the edge of the roof, clip 2 bolts and make a leftward traverse with supplemental gear to the dihedral. Once in the dihedral, clip 8 more bolts with some technical stemming up the bright green lichen face. Clip your last bolt, and head into the final crack up slightly overhanging rock using supplemental gear to a 2-bolt anchor. There are multiple cruxes at the start, in the dihedral, and exiting the final crack. This has quality movement on varied quality rock, the space between the 2nd and 3rd bolt is easy climbing on not-so-good rock, but after the 3rd bolt, the rock is good to the anchors. This is fun climbing, good job, Rob.

Location

This is on the lefthand buttress of the Massif (see the photo).

Protection

10 bolts, small to fist-sized cams for the cracks, and a 2-bolt anchor. This is a long route, but we were able to do it with a 60m rope.