Quartz Dancer

Climb a steep, narrow slab past two bolts, and make a long reach to a shallow pocket (crux). After clipping the third bolt, climb up into a shallow, crumbling, right-facing dihedral. Place gear ASAP. The rock and the gear improve as one climbs higher. There are some moderate runouts on moderate rock.

A variation moves left from the crux, then climbs moderate rock, rejoining the main line at the base of the headwall. A connection can be made from the first part of

Easy Street

, diagonaling right to join this variation.

Bolts five through eight protect the strenuous tango along and beyond the left-slanting quartz dike (second crux) to the top of the headwall.

Mike envisioned the route and was first to toprope it and lead it. He placed the bolts, which was also a first for him. His fellow toproping adventurers on April 29 were Leo Paik and GB. On May 1, GB was bolting supplier, advisor, and assistant. On May 3, Ross Swanson engineered the second lead.

Start uphill and to the right of

Easy Street

. Watch out for poison ivy.

Stick-clip the first of eight bolts. A standard rack will be necessary to protect between the third and fourth (or maybe fifth) bolts, The anchor bolts atop

Easy Street

are the only

in situ

anchors and are about 15 feet behind the finish, on a big ledge. Belay the second up, then rappel with a single 70m rope to the ground. To toprope the pitch, extend the anchors with 15-20 feet of sling. A #2 Camalot can be used (to the west and down, toward the lip) to supplement the anchor bolts.