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Peak Mountain 3

Locked and Loaded

FA Landis
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

(I say PG-13 only because there isn't perfect gear t/o the entire climb).

Begin left of the large flake (

Godspeed,

5.12), with a bouldery start to reach the ledge. Place a cam (yellow Alien) and traverse/mount the ledge. Climb straight up the flake (note that the out-of-sight crack/flake on the right is necessary for hands,and eventually gear. Follow the obvious traditional line up to the small vertical wall and quasi-rest. Move up and left smearing with body english (watch the barn door!). This should make you a bit nervous, but once your feet are up a bomber cam can be placed in the upper crack. I think that there are 2 cruxes with this being the last.

Rap from the chains on the ledge (

Freewheelin'

).

This is a fun climb on and is fairly sustained. I climbed this on self-belay (manual feed), so the rating may be a bit off. Also, see

Freewheelin'

and main MM photos.

Protection

Standard Aliens and nuts with extra set of small cams (yellow - blue) - also one 2" and one 3" can be used near the top.