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Peak Mountain 3

Dexter's Dugout

FA August 2011: Tom Lane, Jay Harrison
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climb the corner, using the offwidth crack and a left-rising rail to the right, to a good ledge with a parallelogram-shaped block leaning on it. Traverse left around the outside corner, to a shallow vertical crack. Climb this for a few moves until you can reach left to join Pinch an Inch. One could, alternatively, join Impulse Drive, or perhaps attempt to follow the corner all the way up to its end. The latter option was rejected on the original ascent, because it runs into a large and messy raven's nest.

NOTE: A lot of ice forms over the lip of the Birthday Corner early in the season. It falls from >30m up, landing among the base of all the Amphitheatre area routes. Even after the main winter's accumulation has fallen, nightly formations continue to bombard the area. Be watchful, wear a helmet, and if big ice is looming above on that crystalline spring morning, maybe climb somewhere else.

Location

In the Amphitheatre, this is the first right-facing corner with an offwidth crack right of Amphitheatre Crack and Pinch an Inch. It lies about 40' left of the right end of the Amphitheatre. Use the 2-bolt anchor for descent.

Protection

Set of nuts, tricams, and cams, including one 4 or 5" cam. There is a bolt on the top section of Pinch an Inch (which this rt. joins), and a 2-bolt anchor at 65'.