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MapDescription
Climb the crack and friable face above, passing one bolt before making a tricky move to reach the overhang. Over and up, using a good horizontal crack and an obnoxiously-poor vertical seam to get situated on the face. Another unhappy move reaches a good horizontal for both purchase and pro before obtaining security on the ledge. Easy to climb a neighboring route and set a TR on this line. The crux pro lies level with but behind the climber; a leader fall here would be awkward.
Location
On the Isobuttress, between Adirondack Rehab and Lane Change, at a crack in low-angled rock on the edge of the apron slab. Descent is via rappel off the oak tree on the ledge.
Protection
A #2 and #3 C4, and a quickdraw; possibly a small C3 below the bolt.
Routes in Black Arches Wall
- 6Scaredy Cat5.11bTrad