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Peak Mountain 3

Plumb Line

FA Jamie McNeill, Alysia Catalfamo, Jay Harrison 8/3/09
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1: Climb up left on small ramps to a stance on top of a tooth-shaped, 2' high flake (same start as Parallel Passage). Traverse R to the crack and then climb the crack directly up through the overhang to the top (100') or to fixed anchors at 80'. V1: Plumb Line Direct 5.11c Climb directly up the seam/thin crack from the Patio. NOTE 4/27/2013: A large chunk of this climb fell down over the winter: a 20' tall, 5' wide, 4' thick block which comprised the right side of the overhang crux section of the route. Looks probable that, once the rock dust is swept off, I suspect this will make the route easier.

Location

The Black Arches Wall is accessible by a 1/2 hour walk along a good herd path through the Boulderwoods and up along the side of the mountain, passing the Measles Wall and South Corner Cliffs along the way.

Start: This route begins on the "Patio", a ledge over a 30-40', scruffy slab, 50' R of Black Arch Arête, at a dead-vertical, thin crack/seam splitting a 12' wide square-cut buttress.

Protection

All Trad: nuts and small to medium cams. There is a fixed anchor (Two 3 1/2" bolts with ss rap anchors, August 2009) after passing the difficult climbing, at 80'