Candyland

Candyland is a good route with a great crux pitch.

Approach as for

Heart of Norway

, but just before reaching it, break left across a short but exposed low 5th class traverse. After this, continue up and left to the base of the beautiful, left-slanting crack which is the start of the route. Fire up this crux pitch with some fantastic finger locks and a tricky wide section. One may rap from fixed anchors at this point, but the route has some interesting climbing after this also.

Pitch 2: swim through a crack which is infested with lichen, but continue to cleaner rock and a belly flop through a tunnel to find a nice belay ledge.

Pitch 3 heads out right to a mank bolt a few feet out on a slab. This bolt needs a replacement, although I found an okay #00 TCU placement right above it. Some nice (solid 5.9?) face climbing leads past the bolt and left to easier cracks and the summit.

Bring your average Lumpy rack up to a #3 or #4 Camalot.