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Peak Mountain 3

Heart Of Norway

FA Tim Hansen and Randy Joseph, 1983
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Look for a large, triangular roof at one third height in the center of the cliff; the first pitch begins directly beneath this. The second pitch is the unmistakable, giant, right-facing dihedral above. Fairly burly 5.10 moves pull a small roof ten feet off the ground to gain a nice crack. Follow the crack not quite all the way up to the large triangular roof and make a spicy traverse right (hardish 5.8) to the roof's right edge. Pull around into a corner and find a nice fingercrack in a slab on the left. A sweet set of fingerlocks deposit you on a nice sloping ledge with modern belay bolts on its left edge. For the second pitch, execute a pair of strange mantle-type maneuvers moving right across two left-facing corner features (10a). From here, the route-finding is obvious; climb the gorgeous, and enormous, right-facing corner via fingerlocks and stems. The pitch, and the route, end below the massive roof above at a pin / bolt anchor. Make two 100' rapells back to the base.

This is an awesome route with sustained climbing on both pitches and perhaps the most splitter (not flared at all) crack on the entire Ridge.

Protection

Standard rack.