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Peak Mountain 3

Storming the Castle

FA Eli Helmuth
CREATED May 2023
UPDATED May 2023

Description

This is one of the best crack pitches at Lumpy and well worth the approach. It is of Cookie Cliff quality with solid gear the entire pitch. This route starts just to the left of

The Eliminator

and a few feet left of the classic two pitch route,

Heart of Norway

which makes for a great warm-up.

A thin crack/face crux leads to a roof which is bypassed on the left. After this, the route backs off to a 5.10 rating for the remaining 50 feet. There is a two bolt anchor at the top of this pitch.

Protection

A lone bolt protects the first crux and a green Alien is helpful to reach the bolt. A large nut can protect the second roof crux. Cams up to #2 Camalot are helpful.


1000 km
500 mi