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Peak Mountain 3

CF Connect Left Upper Right

FA Ken Roberts
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Main purpose is to connect diagonal up right from the top anchor for "CF Left Tower + Groove" or upper or lower anchor for "CF Left Corner" to upper anchor for "CF Wandering" and on to anchor for "UR Corner Crack" and to bush and to upper anchor for "UR Face".

The "game" is to make fll the moves with feet on rock, not dislodging any rocks or dirt or gravel down toward the ground below.

With a variety of interesting moves -- for climbers looking for stuff at around that difficulty grade.

directions

: Start from the top anchor for the route "CF Left Tower + Groove". Diagonal up right to pass a few feet below the two-bolt upper anchor for "CF Left Corner". Continue up right (with care not to step in loose dirt / gravel) to reach wide rock ledge under the upper anchor for "CF Wandering" (which is also

over

the lower anchor for "CF Wandering". Next pass below right from obvious dead stump, and then horizontal right across vague gully.

. . . Variation: To reach the top anchor for "CF Right Groove", traverse horizontal right about 20 ft along ledge which is below the upper anchor for "CF Wandering", passing one bolt (on left side of down-pointing flake) aong the way.

Next up trending right to get on vague ridge and up that passing left of bush-with-rope anchor (optional to go closer and clip to it). and finish at two-bolt upper anchor for the route "Upper Right Face".

. . . From here, could continue up on the route "Upper Right Exit" (or possibly traverse horizontal left to join the route "Connect High Chouinard" just below its final crux sequence (no bolt, needs Trad protection).

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

Top anchor the route "CF Left Tower + Grove".

See M on this Photo

Protection

6 intermediate bolts and one intermediate two-bolt anchor (and perhaps rope-around-Bush anchor) - up to two-bolt anchor.

. . . (one bolt is shared with the route "CF Left Corner).

Variation to traverse to reach top anchor for "CF Right Groove" has an intermediate bolt.

. . (Intermediate bolts and hangers are all 304 Stainless steel. Installed 2018).

The bolts near the loose dirt / gravel are closely spaced to try to help climbers feel safe to find a sequence that does not disturb the loose stuff.