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Peak Mountain 3

Connect High Chouinard

FA Ken Roberts
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Two possible purposed for this route: To reach the top anchors for some routes in sector Chouinard, to set up Top-Roping.

Or to have an "adventure" combining thoughtful moves on rock with scrambling on dirt + grass + loose rocks.

Another problem is that the zig-zag in the second quarter of this route likely will give substantial rope drag.

First climb the route "Hand Traverse". Then above the notch, angle up right on loose dirt to reach a left-facing corner with ramp on its left side.

. . . Stopping to build an anchor and belay here will help avoid rope drag.

Instead of going up that corner, angle up left on ramp about 12-16 ft, then straight up through a notch about 10 ft, then traverse horizontal right about 20 ft (or diagonal up right). Turn left to go straight up gully past a chimney on its right side (or perhaps could climb the chimney?). Partway up the gully soon exit Right to avoid loose rock, and carefully get up onto flat ledge. Look horizontal to see an anchor bolt on top of protruding rock -- but the goal of this route is go much higher.

A few feet up on right side of gully, then into the gully and continue up and right, mostly hiking and easy scrambilng, but at least on more thoughtful sequence on rock. Reach flat area just left of mature tree with mulltiple trunks (this tree is above the Central Fins section). Finally walk horizontally with a few scrambling moves to reach wide flat ledge at the top of the giant dihedral / open book with a dark V slot at its top - ("Big Dihedral").

descent

: Rappel from cord anchor above top of wide Big Dihedral, about 30-35 meters down to wide platform which forms the base of the giant dihedral. Then scramble down roughly south to reach steep trail, and return to base of sector Dostie by walking down and then traverse right to get back to sector Dostie.

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

Start at the top of the route Hand Traverse, above the notch.

see on this Photo

Protection

No fixed hardware for Leading, but this route ends (sideways) at the rappel anchor above the "Great White Book" dihedral.

Leading Trad: Standard rack (but not much use for large cams). Slings to wrap around trees could be useful.

Makes no sense to do this route as a Top-Rope.