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Peak Mountain 3

Hand Traverse

FA Ken Roberts
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Sustained fun moves. If only the good climbing were longer.

Problem as of 2018 is finding a top anchor which can be reached without crossing lots of steep loose dirt and loose rock.

. . Still lots of loose rock above the notch.

Diagonal left up the crack, then step up right through notch. Scramble up (loose + dirty) to a convenient place to build a Trad anchor;

Variations High Finish - (1) Could connect with top anchors for first pitches of route in the Central Fins by continuing up with the route "Connect Top Central Fins"; or (2) could go higher and farther to top of sector Chouinard, then rappel down.

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

At the right edge of the central apron of the (gentler) left side of sector Cosmiques - (with some broken loose left-facing ramps to its left and a more-than-vertical 25-ft-high face to its right).

At the right end of a diagonal crack going up right to left to a notch.

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Protection

Leading: standard Trad rack. Long slings might be helpful for building anchor around protruding rocks.

No fixed hardware for top anchor or intermediate bolts for leading as of 2018.

Plan to bring your own equipment to leave behind to descend by rappel (unless you expect to down-climb the route).