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Peak Mountain 3

Muscle and Hate

FA Tony Bubb and Bob Shire
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Up by Practice Climb 101 and Sidewall, the routes do not all go to the top of the ridge. Above the two aforementioned routes there is a large ledge. Muscle and Hate is a logical 3rd pitch to either of these. Step left around a big corner to a medium sized pine tree with a rap station. Look up through the huge roof with a 3" crack going out its right side. Climb pockets and a Hueco from the ledge up into the crack (TCU in pocket to protect to the side) and pull some strange moves to get into the crack-then roll for the top. This is a great climb that still needs some consensus to confirm the grade.

Protection

The pro is not bad, but the boulder-ish start could produce a twisted ankle on the ledge. The potential for serious injury is low. Take a set of cams up to a single #4. Take an extra hand size if you want to sew it up.

The route has been cleaned a little and has now had at least a second lead (on-sight). Difficulty could be hand-size dependent.


Routes in West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John


  1. 35
    Muscle and Hate
    5.10d
    Trad