- Edit (TBD)
Description
Up by Practice Climb 101 and Sidewall, the routes do not all go to the top of the ridge. Above the two aforementioned routes there is a large ledge. Muscle and Hate is a logical 3rd pitch to either of these. Step left around a big corner to a medium sized pine tree with a rap station. Look up through the huge roof with a 3" crack going out its right side. Climb pockets and a Hueco from the ledge up into the crack (TCU in pocket to protect to the side) and pull some strange moves to get into the crack-then roll for the top. This is a great climb that still needs some consensus to confirm the grade.
Protection
The pro is not bad, but the boulder-ish start could produce a twisted ankle on the ledge. The potential for serious injury is low. Take a set of cams up to a single #4. Take an extra hand size if you want to sew it up.
The route has been cleaned a little and has now had at least a second lead (on-sight). Difficulty could be hand-size dependent.
Routes in West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
- 35Muscle and Hate5.10dTrad