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Peak Mountain 3

Sister Morphine

FA Harrison & Brooks - 1981
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is in the

Pony Express

area. When facing

Mesca-Line

, this route is immediately right of the dihedral that is just right of

Mesca-Line

(the dihedral is

Dandi-Line

). It follows a thin crack with some grass sticking out of it (but the climb is very clean) to a 2-bolt anchor between (and set back from) the two trees.

Begin by ascending the ledge system to a pedestal. Climb the pedestal either on the left, right, or up the face of it. I found that the left is not good due to rope drag problems and the right is much better, but you have to navigate around a tree. Going up the face (which I did) was by far more fun, but it is unprotected. Once atop the pedestal, step to the face and climb the thin crack to the summit. I didn't find a discernable crux, and it felt easier than some other 9s on the West Ridge. It is a very enjoyable climb.

Protection

The pro looks sparse from the ground but you can sew it up. Bring a set of stoppers and mostly small stuff.


Routes in West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John


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    Sister Morphine
    5.9-
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