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Peak Mountain 3

Junk Mail

FA Bruce Miller & Kent McClannan (2008)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Junk Mail is a pretty good little climb for an obscure line that doesn't get much attention. It would surely be more popular if it was accessible from the ground. The rock is mostly good, and the lichen is minimal.

Start below the obvious dihedral. Steep but easy moves out of the gate lead to the crux, a left-facing dihedral with a small crack. Stem the not very well-featured walls of the dihedral protected by very small nuts and cams. This part felt a little harder than most Eldo 5.8. Then negotiate a minor roof followed by an easier crack.

Location

This is on the north side of Mail Ridge Tower (near the top). You can reach it by climbing

Dead Letter Department

or the first couple pitches of

The Mail Ridge

. It is also easily accessible from the

Handcracker

walk off. Scramble down to the chossy ledge system where the descent path takes a hard right. Instead, carefully walk left along this ledge to the first dihedral (which is left of a large roof). This pitch is just left of the third pitch of

The Mail Ridge

and

Lightning Bolt Crack

(which can also be accessed this way).

Protection

Mostly small to medium gear. Make sure you have some small nuts.


Routes in West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John


  1. 15
    Junk Mail
    5.8+
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