Prequel to the Sequel

It's so cool to think that this route has been sitting in plain sight, just waiting for somebody motivated enough to claim it. This is a beautiful pitch that demands focus until the very end.

Prequel to the Sequel is the direct start to the 2nd pitch of the

Edge of Fright

but also has its own steep headwall finish. From the large belay ledge in the middle of the Poe Buttress, climb directly above the bolted anchor to a seam that starts 15 feet up. Slab and face climb this seam past a pin (11+ PG-13) and some fiddley gear to a jug rest. Calm your head, then climb a tips crack that dead ends at a steep wall. Crimp and face climb the seam through the steep wall (crux), with a hard to place nut that eventually gives way to the twin cracks of

Edge of Fright

. Follow the twin cracks for 35 feet until it is possible to switch to the left crack and power out the steep headwall finale (11+).

This is between the 2nd pitches of

Edge of Fright

and

Mississippi Half Step.

It is listed as project #9 in the New Fixed Pin Book.

A lone pin and lots of small gear, nothing bigger than a #1 Camalot.... Some of the gear can be very tricky to find, but every piece is good.

Descend using the bolted anchor on top of

Mississippi Half-Step

. A 70m rope is required.