- Edit (TBD)
Description
Edge of Fright joins
Mississippi Half Step
as one of the "Triple Crown" classics on the Poe Buttress. It links up three cracks on the right edge of the buttress, and is characterized by committing moves above small protection.
The first pitch begins with the
Half Step
, then steps right at the obvious, horizontal crack and continues up a positive, finger crack (5.10).
The second pitch is the Business, and begins directly above the bolted anchor on the belay ledge. Climb slabby moves to an easy hand and fist crack. Collect your psyche, place some pro then step left and climb a thin seam with hard to place small protection. A rest is gained at the horizontal before making hard moves left to the final crack. Another tenuous rest is followed by a challenging, final crack which eventually widens to thin hands before stepping left again to join the
Half Step
at its second belay.
Although the Edge of Fright is a scary lead it protects pretty well with modern small gear. It is arguably the best route on the Poe Buttress. Get on it!
Location
The route is on the far right side of the Poe Buttress. A 70M rope will get you down from the botled anchor at the top of pitch 2 of the Half Step. Or continue to the top of
Uptown Toodaloo
and do 3 rappels with a 60M rope down
Off Your Rocker
.
Protection
Lot's of RPs and TCUs and a few cams to 4".