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Peak Mountain 3

Terrapin Station

FA Mike Schlauch, Mike Pennings, Oct. 8, 2013
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Terrapin Station starts with the first section of

Edge of Fright's

second pitch. At the horizontal where

Edge of Fright

goes left, step up and right into the obvious, discontinuous crack system. Piece together the puzzle, stepping back and forth between Poe's rightmost cracks and the next crack to the left. A 3.5 or 4 cam may help protect the initial section, although we didn't have any of those on the FA.

The crux is probably where the first discontinuous crack section ends and forces you to reach left with a committing move above good gear. Have a finger-size piece ready to place. Switch back to the right crack near the top and then continue to the

Mississippi Half Step

anchors.

This is dedicated to Steve Dieckhoff. He and I hunted around for a new route on the right side of Poe in the early '90s, getting shut down on what is now

Prequel to the Sequel

(nice job on that FA!). We never completed a new route, so when

Prequel

was recently climbed, I decided to go have another look.

Keeping the Grateful Dead theme alive on Poe Buttress. RIP, Steve.

Protection

Basically the same as

Edge of Fright

, with the addition of a 3.5 or 4 cam. A 70m rope with some extra long runners or double ropes is recommended.