- Edit (TBD)
Description
Climb through the nice looking, steep, black streak right of the Working Man/Pick Pocket area (see the photo). Solo up to a ledge to the first bolt or use your 25 foot long stick clip. Seriously, the climbing to the first bolt is not too hard, but something could easily break. A bolt or two should definitely be added to the start.
The crux is moving through the first bulge and up the white headwall. Pulling the bulge is a little beta intensive, and many, many chalked holds exist here to confuse the situation. This is a pretty nice, power endurance section.
Arrive at a very good jug to rest below the black streak. I may have cheated through this black bulge by moving 4 feet left of the bolt line, but I can't see a way to get through otherwise. The black bulge looks awesome but has pretty worthless holds and is the steepest part of the route. For this route to be 13a, I think the climber must move left at this point. Please let me know if there is some great beta to stay within the bolt-line. Despite the traversing, the climbing stays fun with a little endurance pump all the way to the chains.
Protection
8 bolts + anchors.
Routes in Cactus Cliff
- 28Da Fly5.13bSport