- Edit (TBD)
Description
Yet another right-facing dihedral -- this one with a straight-in hand crack, bolts on the face to the right, and varying cracks to the left.
Start between
Almost French
and
Almost Gothic
. Fire straight up the dihedral, with enjoyable stemming and jamming. Practice the mantra "pull down, not out" on the loose blocks on the left wall. The last bolt is placed on the right face, beneath a flake. Two finish options exist -- straight up the dihedral (using the wide-ish fist crack) or undercling right at the flake and power upwards (good hands, not so good feet). The flake option is more difficult, but less thuggish.
The bolts are spaced fairly wide for a sport cliff, but the solid hand jams inspire confidence.
A 5.9 variation to the route breaks left into a crack around the fourth bolt, and finishes on separate anchors on the left wall of the dihedral.
Protection
6 bolts plus anchors.
Routes in Cactus Cliff
- 100Risky Business5.9Sport