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MapDescription
This is a fun climb on mostly good rock that is fairly thin & powerful for the grade.
Begin with an easy mantle onto a spooky perched block above the low ledge (careful not to pull this block off the ledge). Hike up several more tiered ledges and precarious blocks to a stance below the clean wall. Make sure your belayer is watching as you step onto the instantly cruxy panel. A sustained section of sequential pockets & crimps leads past several bolts to a horizontal break. Cruise easier spikey rock to the anchor.
Location
10' left of the shared start of "
New Ethics
" & "
Midget Toss"
, begin directly behind the 15' juniper pine south of the trail.
Protection
~7 bolts, 2BA. Stick clip recommended.
Routes in Cactus Cliff
- 63The Usual Suspects5.12aSport