Chitty Chimney

This is your typical Voo sort of chimney climb. It's on the pleasant side and not the tight, thrashy variety. Despite its modest grade, the phrase "Big Bros are all that protect you to the horizontal" in the Orenczak & Lynn guidebook had deterred me from checking it out until now. For those in the same boat, take heart - this is quite a reasonable route for most climbers who cruise 5.7. The walls of the chimney provide good friction and foot ledges down low, and after 20 feet or so, you get a bomber #4 placement (next to a large pile of poop). Once inside, the chimney does extend a bit below ground level though, so if 5.7 is your limit this probably isn't a great place to be testing your mettle as a slip before making the first placement could lead to a long fall.

The business doesn't come until the top where the chimney widens and you have to exit it onto a ledge. The difficulty of the moves is height-dependent, but the protection is excellent. If you have long enough legs to stem knee-to-butt at the top, the crux will feel easier than it will for shorter folks.

This is the aesthetic looking chimney left of the classic

Straight and Narrow

. It is NOT the easy slot/chimney directly left of

Straight and Narrow

but the cool-looking chimney LEFT of this slot. The easy/chimney slot provides an easy descent after climbing this route.

A single set of cams to BD #4. If you want to protect the initial part of the climb, you need a yellow Big Bro.