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Peak Mountain 3

Turtle Rock Summit Route

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Description

Do you want to stand on top of Vedauwoo? The top of the crag known to climbers as Land of the Rising Moon is actually the highest point in the Voo! It is the only "ranked" summit in the area, meaning it is the only peak that has over 300 feet of prominence. It is officially named Turtle Rock on the USGS map.

In the past, this route has likely been of most interest to non-climber peakbaggers who have been known to aid their way up it, but it is a fun little climbing adventure too if you're in the area and have the skills. For the best value, climb

Straight and Narrow

to

Drainpipe Left Exit

, and finish with this.

The oversized summit boulder poses quite the challenge for the non-technical peakbagger. Luckily the boulder is spilt on one side by an overhanging, tight hands crack. Climb the short but enjoyable crack, and then scamper up low angle slab to the summit.

There is NO FIXED ANCHOR at the top. To descend, most down-aid the route, which is actually quite quick and easy. Don't let the lack of top anchor deter you as the descent when done this way is really no big deal and goes quickly. It should also be possible to run the rope over the whole boulder and anchor it on one side in order to rappel off the other, or to simul-rap.

Location

This route is at the tip top of the crag. Climb

Drain Pipe

or easily scramble up the east side of the formation. Once on top, look for the highest boulder with a significant crack on its northwest side.

Protection

A few cams 0.5 to 3 inches.