We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Moonrise Variation (Moontide?)

FA Vladimir Farkas (lead), Mike Yokell, Mike Parker, Skip Hamilton, and Jeb Schenck, 1972. Steve Matous, Scott Heywood?
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is a Vedauwoo Classic! It has all sizes of crack climbing to a technical and hair-raising, face climbing finish.

This starts fists then widens to offwidth just before a nice hands to thin hands splitter shoots straight up the imposing "headwall". Start on the route Moontide with the fist and offwidth crack. When the wide crack turns horizontal, start up the vertical hand to thin hand crack that shoots straight up the wall, this is The Moonrise Variation. Moontide continues along the wide crack as it turns horizontal and finishes on an obvious offwidth, thereby avoiding the beautiful splitter and face finish of Moonrise. Moontide is easier but not as aesthetic (5.10a).

Location

Just down and left from

Straight and Narrow

is a very obvious, wide crack that arcs to the right with the thin hands splitter of Moonrise branching off and going directly up to the anchors.

Protection

1 of each; yellow TCU, Orange TCU or #0.5 Camalot, #0.75 Camalot, #1 Camalot and #2 Camalot, 2 or 3 #3 Camalots, 1 new #4 Camalot, and 1 new #5 Camalot. The yellow and orange TCUs offer bomber pro just before the face finish. There are brand new, stainless anchors with chains on top.