Cayenne Corners

Cayenne corners is a sick route that gets a slightly vague description in the new guide book. The book shows only the first pitch with an ever-so-slightly misplaced arrow, it actually starts in the left facing corner just to the right. (cayenne corners, duh! excuse us, we're a little slow! LOL) The 10d pitch does not pull the roof proper but traverses to the right to pull it and then climbs the thin, long right facing corner. The 10c pitch was also great but the 6 inch piece was not needed in hindsight. (If you've gotten here clean, you don't need it, although it was nice to have... we bought one for the route and regretted spending the money) We placed it once: Apprx. 15 foot section of run-out 5.8 without it.

This route is easily recognized with Handren's guidebook by the roofs and corners. We were off our game as we let the arrow in the photo make us miss the first corner (cayenne "corners", duh!) and my buddy was lost under the 10d roof, pulling it directly for really easy face climbing above. Our rappel revealed the incredible looking corner that we missed on that pitch! (cayenne corners, duh!!) Basically its the route in the deep corner to the right of ginger cracks, power failure, and unimpeachable groping... Killer route, well done, definitely deserves the star!

Double up on .5 and down; the 10d corner was mostly fingers. Single rack to 4". a few runners, 6" piece if you've got it.