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Peak Mountain 3

Dry Rub

FA unknown
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Description

Except for the bushes on the 2nd pitch, this route is good and very straightforward. Cracks, chimneys, good protection, and short, safe cruxes on good rock are what you'll find bottom to top.P0. 90m 5.8. Climb Waterstreak Chimney. Walk to the back right of the bowl.  Identify the direct line leading from the left of the orange face of Thyme Alone to the base.P1. 65m. 5.7 Climb the cracks through the trees to a comfy belay at the base of some rock stairs.P2. 25m. 10a. The direct line through the bulge may be climbable, but unknown difficulty and protection sent us right, to the ledge, manteling through thick trees, to another overhang above.  Up and left through the overhang (10a, well protected, fun) to a comfortable stance on the left, a bit below the chimney. P3. 40m. 5.9+. This pitch is great.  Climb a world class flared chimney to quality handcrack. Belay in a comfortable large chimney. P4. 55m. 5.9+.  Climb the soft rock and chimney to the top, exit right (tricky), and repeat.  Chimney up to that roof, exit right (trickier) and climb the fun triangle chimney, to yet another chimney belay.  P5. 60m. 10+. At the mouth of the chimney is a set of cracks on either side of the wall.  Work these until taking the climbers right option toward the prettiest rock on the route. Climb the smooth crack until reaching the offwidth opening to the alcove.  The route crux lies above this, so either belay here, or  double check you still have some necessary cams (.3, .5, 2, 3, 1 large) and fire the wide stem to boulder problem.  Belay on the massive ledge above. P6. 30m. 5.9. Climb the pretty stem box, and follow the protectable crack slightly right to the next belay ledge.P7. 60m. 10a. The big crack on the left wall starts with a single burly move in a 6" crack through a roof. After that, cruiser 5.8 or easier to the top, passing 2 small cave features.  Belay in a notch at the top of the wall. Follow a heavily cairned hikers trail down, (go skiers right just after hitting the cairns) which eventually exit the bowl below Rainbow Wall. 

Location

The bowl above Waterstreak Chimney has many cracks.  This is the direct line leading to the left side of the orange face 300' in the air. 

Protection

Doubles .1-3. Single 4-6. Nuts.

All cruxes are brief and safe, and this route could definitely be banged out at fun 5.9 C1 by pulling on a cam at the cruxes.