Sugar

Sugar is a line established by Tony Calderone but left unreported until later rediscovered, documented, and given a name by Larry DeAngelo in the early 2000’s (see comment below). Recently it has been extended another pitch to a logical conclusion higher on the wall. This final pitch, dubbed “The Sugar Glider” is a sublime pitch of Red Rocks slab and seam climbing that elevates what was already a really good, but under appreciated, route to what I think is neo-classic status. As a bonus, from the top of The Sugar Glider, one can easily connect with the 4th pitch of Ginger Cracks if you want to continue with that route. Alternatively, rappel with a single 60m rope.

P1 (5.7, 95’): Climb the left side of the lowest buttress that is about 30’ right of the start of Ginger Cracks. Some fragile rock, protected by two bolts, gives way to a finger crack in nice varnish. One more bolt and gear placements lead to an anchor, or link easily into the next pitch.

P2 (5.10a, 80’): Climb a shallow left-facing corner and arete past 5x bolts and opportunities for gear to a bolted anchor on a nice ledge. Note that two bolts were removed from this pitch due to their proximity to bombproof gear placements. A great pitch.

P3 (5.10d PG13, 150’): The Sugar Glider: A classic pitch! Climb the beautiful, narrow panel of rock sandwiched between a seam on the left and the arete to the right. High on the pitch trend left towards a final bolt in an overlap and the shallow right-facing corner just above. Step up and left (do not follow the corner) to easier climbing up a thin crack to an anchor. 9x bolts and gear protect.

Descent: Rap 90’ straight down to an anchor on Spice, then continue down Sugar the rest of the way. Alternatively, climb up and left to join the 4th pitch of Ginger Cracks.

Approximately 40' right of the start of Ginger Cracks on the left side of a low, blunt buttress. Look for a bolt 50' up.

1x cams from tiny to #1 Camalot. A small set of stoppers... or is it a set of small stoppers? 12x draws/slings. 60m rope.

All of the anchors have been improved with better hardware for descent. A few of the terrible Leeper hangers on the route were swapped for modern hangers and two unnecessary pro bolts on the second pitch were removed altogether. All hardware is adequate as of 2019.