- Edit (TBD)
Description
This looks like it might be a good trad route. Closer inspection reveals lots of extra bolts. If you are a limp old man, looking to get up, this is the route for you.
Per
Mark Rolofson
: John Langston attempted to establish the route on lead drilling 2 bolts on aid. Then below the next to last bolt on
Pretzel Logic
, he fell pulling pro from breaking rock. To finish, he swung over to
Pretzel Logic
& finished up that line. He returned to clean, inspect pro, & top rope the route. He removed one of his own bolts & did not clip the bolts on
Pretzel Logic
(the first 2 & the last 2) on his headpoint ascent. He later removed the bolts on Pretzel Logic that he skipped, moving the 2nd bolt left & creating a new finish named
Defective Agency
. I later returned to replace the first bolt & the last 2 bolts on
Pretzel Logic
. It was there first. Even with these bolts, this route is still serious & should not be underestimated. I would NOT bring just stoppers. A few Aliens seem necessary, especially a red past the crux bolt with #5-6 micro stopper to protect hard moves to reach the next to last bolt on PL.
Location
It's obvious. This is a crack line that looks easier than it is with a bolt in the middle. The bolts at the bottom and top were added as a remedy for old men with ED (EverygoddamnedpieceofrockIseeismine Dysfunction).
Protection
Floppy quickdraws and a flacid nut or two.
Per
Kirk Miller
: the bolts at the top and the bottom were placed before Viagra Crack was cleaned or climbed. All but one were removed when this route was climbed, then they were replaced since they were part of its neighbor,
Pretzel Logic
.
Per
Mark Rolofson
: bolt, Aliens, & microstoppers.
Routes in The East Quarry
- 9Hellhound (originally submitted as Viagra Crack)5.12Trad · Aid