- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a short but fun TR in the right Quarry area. Doug found it. The climbing is more interesting now that a few big blocks were cleaned. It is a bit less solid at the top, but you get a nice mantel & a cool toe hold in the middle.
Still, there is dirt and lichen that may lead to whining, but there are some interesting lines over here, especially that El Matador-like double dihedral.
Thinking about this a bit more after cleaning it, it could be lead. There is a spot for a small (blue or green Alien) right below Doug's foot in the photo, and then a #1 and/or #2 Camalot in that foot hold up and right from Doug in the photo, but it would be R at least.
Location
This is about 200 yards to the right of
The Mummy
. This is probably the 2nd leftmost climb in this right Quarry area.
Protection
When it was first climbed, you could use probably like 30+ foot of sling to get that big chunk of rock up there, then a couple #2 Camalot and a #1 Camalot placement up there, and about 12 feet of sling to extend over the edge.
Now, with the bolts on the adjacent
Holy Mackerel
and
Hairless Dog
, you can clip 5 bolts to make this a retrobolted sport climb.
If you want to climb this as a trad climb, ignoring the bolts, you can use 2 green Aliens, 2 yellow Aliens, a red Alien, and a #2 Camalot. Done this way, the first piece comes after you make a challenging move.
Routes in The East Quarry
- 2Natural Born Topropers5.8Sport · Tr · Trad