Bottoms Up

This is a slightly inviting chimney to those of us iguanadon types. Oddly, it climbs somewhat like a desert route. Now perhaps the most interesting part is that you could lead this with a #1 Camalot rack and smaller.

Ascend the wide crack/chimney to the left of

Good Ju-Ju

on easier-than-it-looks climbing. On my first lead of it, I brought up some Craig Luebben's thesis Bigbros thinking I'd need them. Fiddling with a so-so #3 and clipping it, I found a blind #1 Camalot placement at that level further in. You can offwidth chimney (as I did the first go) or face climb a bit on the outside. Left side in or right side in works a bit higher. Gain the ledge. Now, you can do

Good Ju-Ju's

finish to the right or finish with a minor between the ears crux to the left. There's a blue Alien, #0 TCU spot reachable from the ledge. A wee nip of courage will get you up to the top. For what it's worth, on first lead, I got on top, placed a #0.75 Camalot, and downscrambled to

Good Ju-Ju's

anchor, but the crack for the #0.75 isn't supported, so I unclipped it leaving the directional above the top of the left crux as the directional for seconds.

This starts just left of

Good Ju-Ju

.

What worked: #3 Bigbro (optional), #1 Camalot, red Alien, #0.5, blue Alien, #0 TCU, green Alien, and a #0.75 (super iffy). 4 longer (24") slings are useful. Lower/rap off

Good Ju-Ju's

anchor.