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Peak Mountain 3

Coffin Crack

FA pre-1972
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route climbs up to the obvious stem box / bombay chimney. Start beneath it on a slab and climb up and right to find a crack above a roof that leads up to the box. The bottom section of crack takes lots of pro but when you climb higher up you realize the whole block that you have gear in isn't too solid, but hopefully it will hold.

After the first initial section of crack, you have a handcrack for a couple moves to the base of the box. Place a good, small/medium nut and figure out the moves to get into the stem box. Place a large nut and step out right to the arete and climb easy ground to the top. You should be proficient in placing tricky nuts and TCUs, otherwise it might be somewhat risky.

It might be possible to set up a gear toprope, or use the chains to the left, but it seemed most reasonable to top out and belay above from gear, boulders or trees. Fun stuff. - Casey Bernal

Protection

Lots of nuts and TCUs. Up to a #2 cam.