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Peak Mountain 3

Rufus' Roof Variation aka Climbing Sports

FA Rufus Miller; a while ago.
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Description

Another old trad route makes it onto MP! This is as good as

Coffin Crack

, IMHO, but different. It is not my route, but I did it today and judging from the list, this is RRV. There is an old #1 Friend hopelessly jammed deep in the crux near the top you get to work around. (The most frequently stuck size of those venerable cams.) Its rock quality is about the same as

Coffin Crack

. It may be 9+/10-, but let's see what the consensus says.

Location

This is about 20 feet right of

Coffin Crack

. I went up the left-facing corner arete to the crack. (The more direct crack to the right was wet.)

Protection

Trad gear, medium nuts and BD cams up to #3. Save a few finger sizes for the crux. I'd have liked maybe doubles to 0.5 to choose from, but we didn't have 'em. I anchored off the tree and equalized it with the #3 cam out left. It has a 3 minute walk-off.