This route climbs up to the obvious stem box / bombay chimney. Start beneath it on a slab and climb up and right to find a crack above a roof that leads up to the box. The bottom section of crack takes lots of pro but when you climb higher up you realize the whole block that you have gear in isn't too solid, but hopefully it will hold.

After the first initial section of crack, you have a handcrack for a couple moves to the base of the box. Place a good, small/medium nut and figure out the moves to get into the stem box. Place a large nut and step out right to the arete and climb easy ground to the top. You should be proficient in placing tricky nuts and TCUs, otherwise it might be somewhat risky.

It might be possible to set up a gear toprope, or use the chains to the left, but it seemed most reasonable to top out and belay above from gear, boulders or trees. Fun stuff. - Casey Bernal

Coffin Crack

Balkan Dirt Diving

Slabtastic

Rufus' Roof Variation aka Climbing Sports

Don't Go Chasing Waterfalls

Happiness of Pursuit

Pet Semetary

Generation Gap

Beginner Sports

My Generation

Changing Corners Dihedral

Number 5 Crack

Pet Semetary is the right hand bolted line in the middle of The Sports Wall in greyish colored rock. Head up the corner system right of the yellow wall that hosts

Balkan Dirt Diving

for the first clip a - ways off the ground. It is possible to fish in some very small gear, wires are best, before the clip. Take a breath, and shove on for some fun 5.10 climbing up to the small roof at 50 ft. A brief 5.11 section at the roof and  a couple of more clips will get you to the anchor. Two stars for the fine stone, fun moves, and nice continuity in the climbing.

Here is another excellent route by the master of excellent routes, Ken Trout. Balkan Dirt Diving begins in the middle of The Sports Wall in a smooth yellow plate bounded by a corner on the right.

Balkan Dirt Diving, like

Generation Gap

, delivers its crux right away. A thin seam move and a pair of clips leads quickly to a tricky traverse straight right into a shallow, left-facing corner. Hitting the corner dusts the crux at 5.12a. Chase a few bolts on excellent edges to a small roof that can be pulled on the left. Save the TCUs for the horrizontal jams above; the anchor is right above.

Three stars for the high quality stone, good climbing moves, variety, and continuity. Welcome to Clear Creek!!

The crux on this is about thirty feet up.  You can't get any protection till about twenty feet up (a small cam).  There is not much protection till near the top.  This is a better top-rope climb than a lead climb.  It has a few ledges near the top, but it is certainly a slab in the beginning.

Another old trad route makes it onto MP! This is as good as

Coffin Crack

, IMHO, but different.  It is not my route, but I did it today and judging from the list, this is RRV.  There is an old #1 Friend hopelessly jammed deep in the crux near the top you get to work around. (The most frequently stuck size of those venerable cams.) Its rock quality is about the same as

Coffin Crack

. It may be 9+/10-, but let's see what the consensus says.

Start the same as

Generation Gap

and climb to the ledge just after the third bolt.  Step right onto the face and continue to climb for 4 more bolts through the triple tiered roof.  Strenuous last clip and surmounting the lip leads to easier climbing and the chains on

Balkan Dirt Diving

.

This route has only 2 bolts and 1 pin. The moves past the last pin to the anchor could result in a bad fall. Be confident at the grade for this pumpy 10.

Ex-warm-up, now a nice 5.11 clip up in its own right, Generation Gap is the left of the three main bolted lines on The Sports Wall. A thin seam leads the way immediately to the crux at 5.11a and the first clip. The route settles down after the initial difficulty to some fine 5.10 face climbing. It gets two stars for the fine quality rock, nice continuity at 5.10, and the occasionally devious move. It is a good, sunny spot in the early afternoon.

This route is easy, but it is amusing and can be used as a warm-up climb if you have gear with you.  Near the top there is a bulge with cracks on both sides.  The crack on the left is the easiest to climb.

This route is a slightly harder and the direct start to

Generation Gap

. It climbs the gently overhanging face for 4 bolts before linking to

Generation Gap

.

The route seems a bit difficult at the start, but it also has a difficult section about halfway up.  The protection is fairly good the entire way up.  Some areas look like there is not much pro, but if you look hard, it is there.  There is a nice ledge at the anchors.

This climb looks like it will be harder than 5.8 when seen from the bottom.  However, there are big jugs in the places it looks difficult.  You use the crack for protection but not very much for holds.  The rock quality is not very good during most of the climb.  At the top, the anchor tree will be to the right.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Sports Wall