A varied route, a boulder problem start, followed by and off-width section, then face climbing up to the final crux finger crack/layback. 2 ropes are needed, unless you have an 80 meter rope, which should work.

Biggie Smiles

OW Dude

Dental Floss Tycoon

Terminal Fistula

Insoluble

Phantom Pinnacle

unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown

Tooth Pac

Chemotherapy

Root Canal

Inflictor

Dynamic Dentistry

Low Fang

Unbelievable

Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare)

Dentist Chair

Gingivitis

Snaggle Tooth

The Incisor

Mondo

Broken Tooth

Blue Sky Mining

Brown Baby Teeth

Where The Spirit Meets The Bone

Heat Searcher

Polygrip

Rhythm Method

Tooth Fairy

Midnight Oil

Mushrooms With Hefner

Rock Lobster

Numbing the Wild

Novacaine

Aesthetic and grueling offwidth in a clean flaring corner. Crux for bigger people will be the first 20 feet consisting of tight handstacks without knee locks. Get creative to move those hands up! From there it widens to #5, then #6 camalots for a ways to a handjam below a tight cave. Pulling into this cave is the other burly crux. Use a nut behind a chockstone (there's only one that isn't loose) so you don't step on your gear thrutching in. Then a bunch more #5 and #6. At the end the corner starts to separate and gear would be hard to find and awkward to place- just run it about 12 feet switching to left side in and make an exciting heel hook to gain the top of the right side of the corner. Yeah!

OW route to the left of Dental Floss Tycoon.

I wish the MP had a rating between good and great: a 2.5 star.

The softest 11 in Bloom's book?

A long, fun right-facing corner with rests.  The first half follows a single crack of hands and wide hands.  The second half has double cracks, wide on the left, thin on the right.  No hard moves, but gear/lead management is an issue.  There is a decent stance at the anchors, so if the leader doesn't feel like hauling a 2nd rope up there, he/she can comfortably belay on high.

At about 2/3's height take a look to your left and check out the massive eye bolt on the next climb over (not in Bloom).  Was a jackhammer used to drill that hole?

This climb is just right of the start of Mushrooms with Hefner. Climb a flake just to the right of a chossy off-width chimney, up to a bolt. Climb huecos into the chimney and off-width corner where the climb goes to fists and then hands to the anchor.

This left-facing corner seems to see less traffic than it's neighbor (Unbelievable) but is definitely a worthwhile adventure. Hike around behind the boulder next to "Unbelievable" and belay from the corridor. Start with thin hands which quickly leads into a stretch of baggy fingers. Gain good fingers, try and get a rest and then fire thru the tips and less than tips stemming/layback corner.

This route is a few hundred feet to the left of where the trail meets the rock.  It is a long right facing corner that passes through a few roofs.  It starts out with some laybacking that quickly turns to perfect hands.  Its long, pumpy and awesome.  It gets a five star, 5.11 grade in the guide but many will say a #2 Camalot-sized crack can't be harder than 5.10+. Go figure.

(Per claramie's 2008 description for gold crown) " #7 in the bloom book.  Didn't look 120' from the ground to me.  Start in a right facing .75 to 1 crack up through a roof and change corners.  Pause for a rest in the pod.  Continue up through another roof and into  the offwidth (work the frog step).  Power through one last section and keep your cool when you try to clip the anchors.  Absolutely AWESOME route!!"

A great route, that might prove to be a popular warm-up and/or adventurous endeavor for the climber breaking into solid 5.10 at the Creek.

Currently the route is the farthest on the right side of Broken Tooth. It is just right of the climb Snaggle Tooth.

A #6 camalot is key to protecting the off-width section that climbs above the ledge.

2 Pac Forever!

Tight hands double cracks lead to very thin climbing. Finish through steep varied climbing to a 1" layback section. The thin part is actually kinda a chimney section reminiscent of the bolt move on Desert Shield, but longer. Easy to hang out and place gear, but very difficult to move. Very cool and unusual. I had to clean it up quite a bit on the FA, so it may be dirty again. Likely not seen a 2nd ascent. Worth the effort.

This is the thin finger and tips crack in between Rock Lobster and Polygrip. It's often toproped and my understanding is that it's only seen a couple leads.

This climb was bolted by my buddy J.K. in September 2017. It is an amazingly steep and gorgeous feature climb on the always shady side of a downed boulder.

Great looking right-facing corner.  Starts with a few feet of hands and quickly slims down.  There are a few pods for a tight-hand jam and a "rest".  The crux is a short section where the crack pinches down to tips.

Start with fingers in a really tight flare to a short wide section and then a left-facing crack with some pods.  The rock gets softer towards the top.

Long Offwidth on the far right of the Broken Tooth.

hands, fist, chimney, and offwidth splitter.  No crux, just sustained.

One of the best offwidths in the creek.

This two-pitch route is the corner just left of Broken Tooth. The first pitch is the worst I've climbed at Indian Creek. The rock is loose, hollow, and very sandy, and except for the first piece or two, most protection is dubious. The first pitch is rated 10- in the Bloom guidebook and that seemed about right. It would be good not to fall leading this pitch.

The second pitch ascends a thin-hands and hands size crack up a flake. The rock is quite solid and would even be a good one to push your limits.

I'd give the first pitch a bomb and the second three stars; one star overall.

A mostly off-width route with a bouldery start as well as a .75 section through a short roof.

Snaggle Tooth is the far right side of the Broken Tooth wall, to the right of Biggie Smiles, and to the left of Tooth Pac.

Yet another off-width route for the Broken Tooth wall.

Right when you get to the top of the approach trail, this is the offwidth that splits up the prominent leaning pillar.  Starts with a hand to wide-hand crack then a rightward leaning offwidth crack to a roof.  Pull through the roof and more offwidth climbing leads to the anchor.  Really fun route.

(Per Max Schon's 2002 description for Unnamed 5.10/11(?) - "This is the wide short crack when you get to the base of the cliff. I've never done it, but everyone I know who has, told me it's harder then it looks.Looks like you can get your knees in the crack, but apparently they just don't quite fit. Name? Probably 5.10+"

located far left on Broken Tooth. almost always shady. steep fingers,wide fingers goes into a slightly leaning, endless fist/rattly fist splitter. hard to see the anchors (which should probably be renovated).The anchors were long ago fixed. they are bomber (see comment section)

Starts on top of a small block with tight hands in a flare which quickly go to hands and big hands.  Pull up into a large cave below the "tooth".  Move out left and pull up over the "tooth".  Finish up the narrowing left-facing offset to the anchors.

Named after the 'Midnight Oil' album, I presume.

A good route, but relatively short for the cliff. The climb has some variety and still packs a punch in its short length.

Brown Baby Teeth climbs alot of hard sizes at a relatively low grade due to a plethora of footholds, some of which are made up of soft rock and could break.  There is a short crack switch and a less-than-tips crux, all on good gear as the inside of the crack is varnished while the outside is less-solid lighter rock.  All in all, a good little route that will give your day some variety amongst all those classic splitters.

This route was put up by Offwidth addict Stu Bradbury from the UK. It’s the wide flake in between The Dentist Chair and the Tooth Fairy. Climb the sharp #4 flake till you get to the wider section. From there it’s a hard size #9 squeeze till very good anker. The last 20ft is probably protected by a VG #12 (#8 BD) or a Big Bro. I had only had  one tipped out #9, but that’s not recommended!

Deserves more ascents for sure! Great addition to the Wide routes in this corner.

Heat Searcher is a phenominal climb at a cliff of phenominal climbs.  It obviously receives less traffic than the other classics, perhaps because of the apparently chossy approach pitch, or perhaps just because there is an approach pitch, period.  In any case, those who overlook this climb are missing out.

Begin in the chimney behind the pillar just left of Rock Lobster.

P1: Climb the loose chimney and then eventually up twin cracks on somewhat suspect rock to a good belay ledge.  Despite some poor rock, the pitch climbs extremely well.  5.10+, 120'.

P2: Launch up a short bomb bay slot and then pull up onto the extremely steep thin hands crack.  5.11+, 70'.

Slightly hard than Rock Lobster, but way better.  The Ruckman's guidebook says something about taping the right side of your harness for the finger layback section, but that's an exaggeration.  The pitch begins with some tight hands and good feet that goes to a big ledge at the beginning of the killer finger layback section.  Layback about forty feet of perfect fingers (yellow aliens), pull a thin hands bulge (crux), and finish with some thin hands.

This short and fun tips splitter is on the right hand side of the main face that rock lobster is on. It begins with some technical moves using the two cracks at the start, and then follows the splitter to a two blt anchor. This climb is unusual in the fact that it has foot-holds to work with. Be carfull of loose rock around the anchor

A fun climb with an early crux (have the green camalot ready) and then a pump crux up top if you don't move quickly.  Climb the initial thin crack up to a pretty good hold, protect high, but with a sling, traverse left on funky moves to gain the open book to the left and then layback up the good flake. to the anchors. It get easier as you go.

(Per Steven Lucarelli's description on 10/21/09) - "This route climbs a short splitter to a traverse left (crux?) and a small rest stance. Layback and jam the final right facing corner to the anchor."

Pitch One: Easy Chimney with a face move to gain a ledge. 25m. Step onto face at bolt or climb slightly higher in the chimney and step left. 5.10.

Pitch two: Easy 2" crack to laser beam 1" crack through a slight bulge. Broken 1" and 3/4" gains the chains. 22m. 5.12+.

This route lies approximately 50' to the right of the leaning pillar that defines Brokentooth Wall at the top of the approach trail. Cupping hands for the first 80', with rests in four or five flares fairly evenly spaced after 50'. Narrows to fingers near the top for the crux. Traverse right, go up, then back left to avoid the .11b if necessary. Can be TR'd with two 60's but you have to get around the knot. Great route!

Start by climbing an open corner with some face features and difficult stemming/smearing to a large pod. To protect this, use a blue Alien below the pod. You can also stick clip or maybe toss in a large stopper into the crack above. Above the pod, climb an offwidth crack with nice face features. The crack eventually turns into nice hands before the anchor on the right. Rating this climb is difficult as the initial moves are pretty hard (bouldery) and the crack above is maybe 10+/11-. A fun climb, in my opinion.

Thin finger crack in fun flare. A little something different.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Broken Tooth