- Edit (TBD)
Description
I wish the MP had a rating between good and great: a 2.5 star.
The softest 11 in Bloom's book?
A long, fun right-facing corner with rests. The first half follows a single crack of hands and wide hands. The second half has double cracks, wide on the left, thin on the right. No hard moves, but gear/lead management is an issue. There is a decent stance at the anchors, so if the leader doesn't feel like hauling a 2nd rope up there, he/she can comfortably belay on high.
At about 2/3's height take a look to your left and check out the massive eye bolt on the next climb over (not in Bloom). Was a jackhammer used to drill that hole?
Location
Starts in the alcove on the left side of the huge pillar where the trail comes up.
Protection
Camalots: several #2 & #3s, 1 or 2 #4s, a few in the .4 to #1 range, draws and runners. Zircon-encrusted tweezers.
Routes in Broken Tooth
- 10Dental Floss Tycoon5.10Trad