"To go where no idiot has gone before."

Well, hell, climbers are not the sharpest tools in the shed, but they do have fun. It's amazing how much rock is out there and just begging to be climbed. Yeah, this may have been climbed before, but the rock is not in Hubbel's guide, Gillett's isn't out yet, and it isn't in the database, so here goes. This name/description refers to the 2nd of 3 pitches of the line.  Please don't get mad if this is your FA.

This route is located just upstream & across the river from Scout Rock & just downstream Guardian Rock (listed in Hubbel's guide). It is on a buttress just above the S. St. Vrain. It follows a natural line at a moderate grade. It does face NW, so, sunny is not a typical adjective for the route. Think a bit licheny. Bring tape.

Find a RFD after crossing the river and bushwhacking to the R side of the rock. P1. Ascend this reasonable corner for about 60 feet to a good ledge & belay, 5.8. (This has been climbed before & may be called "

Auld Lang Syne

.")

This is the described pitch:  P2.  Continue up a groove to the R of the big RFD (previously climbed) with pinches to start.  It becomes a chimney about 40 ft up.  Crux of this pitch involves a bit of squeezing & not leaving gear racked behind you in the chimney part.  From there, the terrain eases in difficulty trending R with non-sustained face climbing.  The end of this pitch may join the finish for the big RFD (previously climbed).  Continue to about 190ft up after crossing a separation in the wall.  5.7.

P3.  Go up a short lieback with double cracks to an easy but exposed traverse off the R side of the crag for 150 ft or so to the walk off.  Aim for a decent-sized tree.  This pitch has been climbed previously.

Descend a sloping gully to the R of the climb.

Eric Couldn't Come

Auld Lang Syne

Cheech and Choss

Martial Law

This route takes the line of least resistance and most shrubbery on the left side of Guard House Rock.

P1. Climb up easy ground to a large, horizontal crack. Traverse the crack right to gain a ledge. Traverse right on the ledge to gain a thin, left-slanting seam. Climb the seam to a ledge with a steep, left-slanting fist crack. Climb the crack to another ledge and set a belay.

P2. Continue up a left-slanting, wide crack to a ledge. Climb up nice flakes in an obtuse corner to another ledge. Traverse right on the ledge, climb a short face to another ledge, and set a belay.

P3. Climb up easy ground to a large ledge. Continue up a wide crack on the right, east-facing wall to the top.

Descent: scramble down the chimney from the southwest corner of the pinnacle to a small ledge with a large chockstone. Rappel from fixed slings 35m to a rock ledge, and scramble north back to the river. A 70m rope is helpful.

As described in the Gillett guide, this is a two-pitch affair.

P1 ascends a grungy off-fingers right-facing dihedral adorned with two bushes (about 50 feet?) to a nice, wide ledge. Traverse the ledge leftward (passing the

Eric Couldn't Come

crack), and belay at the next right-facing dihedral.

P2 follows the corner - with short jaunts to the face - to an OW/fists bulge that must be overcome (crux) then continues up. There are more bushes to drag yourself through! Ramps and easy mantles lead to a belay ledge still shy of the local summit.

Climb a direct start or climb

ALS

to ledge, and split left onto bolts. Continue to the summit.

I have not done this route yet. When I do, I will post more beta. It looks quality if cleaned.

Description

Protection

Routes in Guard House