Cheech and Choss

This route takes the line of least resistance and most shrubbery on the left side of Guard House Rock.

P1. Climb up easy ground to a large, horizontal crack. Traverse the crack right to gain a ledge. Traverse right on the ledge to gain a thin, left-slanting seam. Climb the seam to a ledge with a steep, left-slanting fist crack. Climb the crack to another ledge and set a belay.

P2. Continue up a left-slanting, wide crack to a ledge. Climb up nice flakes in an obtuse corner to another ledge. Traverse right on the ledge, climb a short face to another ledge, and set a belay.

P3. Climb up easy ground to a large ledge. Continue up a wide crack on the right, east-facing wall to the top.

Descent: scramble down the chimney from the southwest corner of the pinnacle to a small ledge with a large chockstone. Rappel from fixed slings 35m to a rock ledge, and scramble north back to the river. A 70m rope is helpful.

This route starts at the far left side of the north face of the Guard House buttress.

Standard rack with extras of the larger cams (BD #3 and #4).