Hard to believe this one hadn't been put up prior to the latest guidebook.  The line is high quality.  A steep switching fingers corner deposits you to a rest or two before the off-fingers laybacking and crux roof just before the chains.  Punch it.

Unknown

Tenderloins

Carne Diem

The Question Mark

Jones-in

Thinner

Steer It Up

Beef & Veggies

Rump Roast

The Slaughter House

Prime Cuts

Potted Meat

Beat the Meat

Unknown Far Left

Unnamed (5)

Unnamed Sandbag

Heinz 58

Mad Cow Disease

Incredible Spam Crack

Tinderloins

Chopped Liver

2nd pitch of unnamed(5). Climb the easy wide crack to a sandy chimney. With long entensions, place a can in the roof and bust around the slab. Climb the not splitter corner to an amazing tight hands splitter, crack switch to fingers and thin hand jams, then finish up the final finger crack.

Not your typical creek route. Adventure!

One of the best in the desert.  Start with powerful moves around a roof to a pumpy overhanging lieback.  Cop a nice rest and charge up the gorgeous off-finger spliter, with pods.  Finish in a flare with fingers in the back.

Meat Day! What an awesome, varied and unique addition to the  Tenderloins Wall! Start up the first 20 feet of "Steer it Up" until you gain a ledge. Traverse left and clip a bolt at the base of an improbable looking boulder problem (much harder if you're short). Climb the cruxy boulder problem, clipping a second bolt and pull into a series of flares. The first protects with micro cams and features techy climbing the second has good fingers. Rest up and fire thru the finger crack until it thins out and you switch into another finger crack. Try and milk a rest below the mini roof and then pull into a thin tips crack at the top. One last stretch of difficult tips splitter to a less than tips boulder problem guard the anchor at the top.

This thing had been unclimbed for 2 obvious reasons. A 10 foot tall keyed in block halfway up the pitch (this thing was barely hanging on and was honestly a huge hazard to people lowering off of Steer it Up), and the less than obvious boulder problem start to gain the crack. It could have been an independent line with the use of 2-3 more bolts but I felt the proximity to Steer it Up made it unnecessary.

You MIGHT be able to lower to the pillar with a 70 meter rope. I've only ever used an 80 meter and that leaves about 20 feet of rope on the ground, be sure to tie a back up knot.

Starts off a stack of choss below a roof split by a finger crack.  A boulder problem start to surmount the roof gains a stance. Goes quickly to fists and remains so as the crack arcs into a reverse question mark shape.

A very sustained mostly fingers corner.  From stemming, to laybacking, to jamming, to chimneying, this climb will make you do it all.  First make your way over three almost identical roofs to gain a good rest.  Then crank into a sustained crux, stemming when possible to reach a short pod.  Finally layback out the nicely exposed corner roof.

Finger splitter, direct start to Jones-in.

Very Fun!: MANY PERFECT HAND JAMS (for very very very large hands, i.e., closer to fists than cupped hands).  But: The looseness of the hands forced me to focus on my feet which, if you are a hack like myself, is always helpful. Could might possibly be great fist jamming for the very slight-handed.

Apparently this is climbed relatively rarely for such a long, moderate, and varied route in a relatively popular area (Its the second route left of Incredible Spam Crack, in a left facing crack system).

CAVEAT: It seems that the BLM's so-called 'maintenance engineers' have been goldbricking during their nightly vacuuming rounds as there is a little bit of loose rock and sand near the middle of this route. Could someone direct me to the Complaints Department? Thank you. . . .

WAY far right on the Tenderloins wall.  A delicate but easier-than-it-looks face climbing move protected by micros gains the crack proper.  Go through all the sizes, a mantle, two pods, and a sweet hidden flake jug to gain the chains.

It's a fun route, but with such quality lines like Prime Cuts, Incredible Spam Crack, and Heinz 58, it's hard to give more than 2 stars.  However, this would be a 4-star route at Selfish Wall.

Note: this could probably take a second pitch.  Bring some more small gear and add to the fun if you desire.

This pitch starts with a fingery boulder problem over a roof to get off the ground. From there, the crack widens to 1.5 inches and changes from a shallow left-facing corner to a right-facing corner in excellent varnish. This part of the wall doesn't seem to get as many visitors as other classic lines, so be ready to deal with some sandiness and maybe bring extras of the smaller sizes for backup.

A long and varied corner from .4 Cam to #3. Starts fingers through two roofs, then slowly widening.

To the Right of Jonesin. This is probably the most sandbagged climb I've done at the creek.It is still not to be missed!

The start of this route looks tough but don't let this scare you away, it's easier than it looks.  Thin cracks lead to a nice ledge about 10' up, followed by more fingers in a right facing corner.  Past here the crack gradually opens up and then pinches down slightly near the anchor.  The rock at top is a little soft but not to bad.

head left at the top of trail about 1 minute till you see a plaque in an obtuse corner.climb corner with tips and laybacking or locks on softer rock than windgate.rap from red rap-bolts.a good "warm up" that packs a punch.

This is the varied splitter to the left of the 5.9 dihedral handcrack (called Incredible Spam Crack). Climb the crack till it shuts down and forces a slab move out left to the anchors.

A short kind of bouldery finger crack in a corner has a splitter that dog legs left from the corner and pinches to a seam. Some thin tenuous pro but generally pretty good rock and good moves.

The crux of this route is obvious and full on right from the start.  Climb some loose rock to the bottom of a flaring bomb bay chimney.  Place a good piece high in the chimney and fight your way through the crux.  Easier climbing leads to a rest ledge and then over a 100' of awesome hands (#2 Camalots-#3 Friends) gets you to the anchor.

Starts in a flare, with interesting stemming to a slightly heady thin section. Then charge up a leaning, overhanging offset splitter. SH bolts testify to the first ascentionist. Way harder than the 11+ given in the Bloom guide.

This fingercrack is located on the right side of the wall on a lower-angled section of lighter colored rock. Good features for the feet with a tricky move getting to the anchors (this is where the smallest cams are handy).

This is an incredibly varied route, with everything from a squeeze chimney to the crux fingertips layback at the top.  Good rock and quite a few face features the whole way.  Maybe a little stout for the grade?

Handcrack in a right-facing corner to the left of a fingercrack (Heinz 58 5.10+). Good warmup route.

This route lets you get a little bit of everything that the creek has to offer. Starts with a little bit of offwidth and ends with fingers. It is in a right-facing corner.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Tenderloins Wall