- Edit (TBD)
Description
Meat Day! What an awesome, varied and unique addition to the Tenderloins Wall! Start up the first 20 feet of "Steer it Up" until you gain a ledge. Traverse left and clip a bolt at the base of an improbable looking boulder problem (much harder if you're short). Climb the cruxy boulder problem, clipping a second bolt and pull into a series of flares. The first protects with micro cams and features techy climbing the second has good fingers. Rest up and fire thru the finger crack until it thins out and you switch into another finger crack. Try and milk a rest below the mini roof and then pull into a thin tips crack at the top. One last stretch of difficult tips splitter to a less than tips boulder problem guard the anchor at the top.
This thing had been unclimbed for 2 obvious reasons. A 10 foot tall keyed in block halfway up the pitch (this thing was barely hanging on and was honestly a huge hazard to people lowering off of Steer it Up), and the less than obvious boulder problem start to gain the crack. It could have been an independent line with the use of 2-3 more bolts but I felt the proximity to Steer it Up made it unnecessary.
You MIGHT be able to lower to the pillar with a 70 meter rope. I've only ever used an 80 meter and that leaves about 20 feet of rope on the ground, be sure to tie a back up knot.
Location
Shares a start with "Steer it Up" then traverses left on the ledge.
Protection
2 quickdraws, (1 each) .1 x4, Green C3, .2 x4, (5) Blue Metolius, (3) .3's, (4) .4's, (1) Orange Metolius, (1 each) .5-2.0, long runners for the start.
Routes in Tenderloins Wall
- 14Carne Diem5.12+Trad