Above the Electric Gully, in the center of the cliff, is large pillar.

Wasp

climbs the corner on the left side of this pillar, while Strangers in the Night ascends the right side. The crux fist crack is tucked away in a right facing corner and is not visible from the base of the cliff. As a result, this nice route sees little traffic.

The first pitch is the same as the Electric Gully. Climb steep knobs out of an alcove, past a bush, and then squeeze chimney past another bush. A variation (5.10) can be done by starting on the hand crack on the left wall and then moving through knobs up and right to get over into the chimney. Establish a belay in the gully below the obvious right-facing corner.

The second pitch climbs the burly fist crack in the corner to a ledge, and then more cracks to the summit. Like most climbs at New Diversions cliff, it is possible to link this into one long pitch but you will probably need an 80m rope or do some simulclimbing.

Strangers In the Night

Rocket Man

Burst of Brilliance

Highlander

New Deviations

Tail End

Shake, Rattle, and Drop

Chicken Pie

Wasp

Falcon

New Diversions

Jugs

Cock Tart

Exciting and fun climb just right of New Diversions.  The route follows steep and smallish chickenheads for quite a while before merging with New D near the top of it's second pitch.  Very interesting and delicate climbing in spots.  Seemed very sustained and perhaps hard for the grade.

Someone could probably fill this in better as my ascent was more than 10 years ago.

Start by making a big move to get established on the face. Climb past a piton that I re-set by having my belayer toss me up a rock. Then move left into a beautiful splitter tips crack which opens up the higher you go. Piton needs re-set and the note I put in my guidebook says “needs new anchor”, so heads up on that! Remember it being a beautiful pitch.

Burst of Brilliance is a worthy line while at the New Diversions cliff.  Start up the bolted face, bust through the crux with your Burst of Brilliance to the crack above that leads to the bolted anchors.

Incredible thin face climb up to a short juggy roof. I found 3 distinct cruxes (possibly 4) one of which involves using a ridiculously small disc shaped crimp (nails down!). You'll also find some really powerful long moves between crimps that feel like vertical campusing. Perhaps a bit height dependent however.

The other other "New D". This climb is almost as good as New Diversions. Start the same, but upon clipping the first bolt, continue up instead of traversing right. The crux is a delicate step right to gain some large knobs and it's well protected by the second bolt. After that the route starts to wander up and left. Make two raps with one rope using the Highlander anchors above the roof. (70m rope only gets you down as far as the first bolt).

I'm posting this climb because the top half is a great 2" hand crack that goes at 5.6  It is rare to find a beginner climb like this that is low angle down in the river canyon.  So if Swan Slab is too crowded in the early spring, you just don't want to go to Knob Hill, or the cliff up and left of Little Wing is just too long of a walk, come and do this line.

Climb an unattractive, chocky, left facing corner to a nice flat ledge.  Continue up left around a tree in the slammer hand crack.  The top slabs out but the crack continues.

This is a hidden gem!  There are bushes blocking the view of the top half of the climb from the ground.  If the bushes were not there I'm sure this climb would have people on it more often.  Can be done in one pitch but two is recommended due to rope drag.

Pitch One:  Climb up crack into and through the bushes.  Set up a natural anchor below a large roof.

Pitch Two:  Climb through the roof with excellent hands and cups (.10b) turning the lip is the crux.  Continue up slabby hand crack (#2.5 friend) to the top and a natural anchor.

Walk off to the right.

This is a route of high quality with all sorts of jams from finger locks to fists and knob tie-offs.  I would point anyone who is a crack lover to this climb.  It is also considered the warm-up climb for the area, although, it really is a little steep and stiff for this consideration.  Many climbers feel Chicken Pie is deserving of a .10a grade.  This is understandable since Chicken Pie is one of the more demanding 5.9 finger to hand cracks.  The overall quality of this climb is comparable to the best cracks you will find down canyon.

Also, if you have repeatedly climbed pitch one of Chicken Pie, I would recommend you give the knobby pitch two top out a try.  From the chains, pitch two heads right and up large knobs.  The pro is good on the entire route, and can easily be done in one pitch if mindful of rope drag.

Start on a stone pedestal on the far left of the crag.  Climb up a left facing corner, arete and face.  Route is a bit mossy, but provides interesting climbing on quality stone.

New Diversions is a fun little climb with a unique crux.

P1: Begin at the obvious right-facing crack just left of a right-facing corner near where the trail hits the wall. Climb this wide crack up to near its terminus, then step up, clip a bolt, and climb up and right across the knob-studded face. The crux involves mantling onto a huge steering-wheel shaped knob. Belay just above, on a knob near the arete, at a pin with small cams/wires to back it up. 5.10a.

P2: Continue up the thin crack and knobs until it suddenly turns wide. Struggle up this to a belay at a two bolt anchor. 5.9.

Most parties do two raps from here (possible with a single 60m rope but be careful!), but it is possible to continue to the top on easier terrain before walking off.

This route takes a path of least resistance up the knobby face to the right of Chicken Pie. It is best done in one very long pitch. An 80m rope might make it to the top of the cliff. I think with a 70m you will have to simulclimb 20ft or stop and belay at a hand crack just shy of the top.

Start a ways to the right off a boulder that touches the base of the wall. Climb up to a high first bolt, and then continue upwards to a second bolt. The bolts were recently replaced and are bomber. From the second bolt downclimb a short ways and traverse perhaps 15 feet to the left. From here continue up on smaller knobs to reach a small footledge below a water-streak. Down at the bottom of the footledge is a knob that you can tie off which protects the next crux. (Its also possible to escape here by traversing further left on big knobs to a bolted rap anchor) Make one sort of thin move above the ledge to gain a good rail and bigger knobs in the water-streak. There is another ok knob that can be tied off here, before you must mantel onto a hummock which is growing out of the bottom of a flake. This leads to directly below the roof where there is good gear (1-1.5 cams). Getting over the roof is easy thanks to big knobs and then its a cruise to the top of the cliff.

Climb and mantle chicken heads for 7 bolts, then plug cam in horizontal, traverse right and then up past one more hitherto-out-of-sight bolt, then up to anchor. Fun and cool-this route is not pg13.

Description

Protection

Routes in Ap. New Diversions