New Deviations

The other other "New D". This climb is almost as good as New Diversions. Start the same, but upon clipping the first bolt, continue up instead of traversing right. The crux is a delicate step right to gain some large knobs and it's well protected by the second bolt. After that the route starts to wander up and left. Make two raps with one rope using the Highlander anchors above the roof. (70m rope only gets you down as far as the first bolt).

Pro to 4 inches, 5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Save a shoulder length sling for a knob tie-off in the later half of the route.