Vieux Guide

An engaging alternative to the standard Guide's Wall.

Vieux Guide, established by a couple highly regarded climbers, ascends weaknesses on the eastern side of the wall and traverses over to Flake Ledge to finish on terrain normal to a Guides' Wall ascent.

The first pitch starts after a fourth class scramble past a large pine tree.  Up the left facing corner, then slightly right through steep terrain (5.8-ish) to a belay position which should have some fixed sling (also the end point for the Bat Attack Crack variation).

The second pitch rises slightly to the left but mostly traverses west ending at a belay position setting up the next easier pitch on lower angle terrain.  5.7 and exposed with reasonable opportunities for protection.

Third pitch rallies up big features, still up and a bit left.  Fourth pitch up shallow crack grooves and features to gain the Flake Ledge joining the standard Guide's Wall.  Pitches are 5.6 or 5.7 depending on line chosen.

Fifth pitch starts in the thin to fat finger crack (5.9) and climbs the overhang above (and slightly right) of the crack.  The crux of the route at 5.10 with reasonable protection with thin cams and nuts in crack features below the lip of the roof.

6th pitch climbs the standard last pitch of the Guide's Wall route.  Descend as for that route.

Located a couple hundred feet to the right of the start of the standard Guide's Wall route.

Past the large overhand right of the start of Guide's Wall, note the smooth wall then a left facing corner above a large pine tree.  This is the start of Vieux Guide.

Left of Bat Attack Crack and Hot Dogs.

Set of stoppers and thin cams to around 3". Doubles in the .3 to 1" range might prove useful. Slings and draws to match.